Vamos A Esteli

One way to get to Matagalpa (obviously).

Today we're on the way to northern Nicaragua to the little tobacco town of Esteli where we're planning a day of touring cigar factories and maybe a tobacco farm or two. Yes, I'm in the coffee business and Yes, maybe I should spend time visiting coffee farms, but I'm also a cigar lover and I've seen a lot of coffee these past two weeks!

As I've said before, the great irony of international coffee judging is that we typically see the Greatest Convention Centers of the World and very little of the nations we are visiting. This time, I am determined to get a little more out of this trip and with the generous hospitality of Claudio Valenzuela, we're zipping up the highway on the lookout for cars, trucks and the odd cattle crossing the road (we've already almost crashed into one bull).

Taska Kiko

Gran Reserva - it could get crazy tonight!

Sometimes you come across a place to eat that captures the mouth and mind that you always want to return. Taska Kiko in Managua is one of those places. Located in a quiet and dark neighborhood, it's off the beaten path (while being very close to the beaten path) and not well known by the front desk staff. So unknown by the hotel staff that I kinda felt "in the know" in Managua.

Long time readers of this blog may remember my previous visits to Taska Kiko. In 2008, the group waited for my arrival into the city before making the excursion, knowing that I would like the place, and I haven't gotten enough since.


And it begins...

It's a simple Spanish restaurant and while the menu isn't vast, what it does offer it does tremendously. In three meals here, I have yet to try something here that falls short of brilliance. If you visit Managua, a meal at Taska Kiko should be a "must".

Since there's only two of us, I start off boldly but cautiously. With tapas style meals, the temptation for overindulgence is great and we must be careful - especially with so many delectable treats on the menu.


Jamon Iberico.

Since it is a Sunday night, the restaurant isn't too busy which means that our food comes out quickly. We start off with something simple but unctuous: Jamon Iberico - that five year aged ham made from black footed, acorn-fed Spanish pigs. The Jamon is fatty, slick and delicious.

From there it's off to Calamari cooked on the plancha with garlic and it's just stellar. A plate of white asparagus as a nod to healthy eating (as though I learned nothing from that stunt in Salvador) for good measure. Add a basket of lovely bread and we're off to a great start.


White Asparagus in olive oil with tomatoes.

Somewhere along the way in Nicaragua this trip, I've become addicted to the powerful flavor of Flor de Cana Gran Reserva and Coke. The sweet balance of rum and coke is just too powerful and we're off again with bottle service at Taska Kiko. Just a rocks glass, a bucket of ice and a shot glass to measure properly and we're good to go. Literally.

About halfway through the bottle, the Paella arrives. Filled with all the good stuff of seafood glory: shrimp, mussels, fish, clams & calamari, the paella is a delicious treat. For some reason, I've been on a paella kick this trip and I can't seem to slow down.


Garlic Calamari.

By the time we're finishing up the paella (and the Gran Reserva), we're in no mood for dessert. We're not stuffed. In fact, we're just at the right point. Not too full and certainly not hungry. But to add dessert would probably push it right over the edge - and besides, I don't think sweet and creamy desserts go well with Gran Reserva in the digestive tract.

So with contented stomachs, we bid the friendly staff at Taska Kiko adieu and I look forward to my next visit to Managua.


Seafood Paella.

Campeonato de Baristas Nicaraguense, Finals

Ana calibrates with Claudia, Isaura and Juan Pablo.

It's finals time in Nicaragua and we're ready to go. The judges are ready, the competitors are ready and even the gathered public is ready and it's time to go.



A good turnout.



Coordinator Martha Zamora and Edwin Ruiz conference.



Juan Pablo, Indira and Isaura ready.



Everyone Loves Marisela.



Finals Judges: Rebeca Vergeli (s), Juan Pablo Oporta (s), Indira Aria (t), Isaura Zeledon (s), Ana Garcia (t), Claudia Lovo (s) and Yours Truly (h).



Head Judges' Scoresheet.



My signature preserved on the Champion's trophy.



For the Champion.



My lunch: chicken from Tip Top.



Everyone eats.



And eats.



And eats!

Meson Espanol

Ana and sangria.

We're left to our own devices tonight and it's a good thing I've been to Managua a couple of times because I'm not daunted and we venture forth into the night to seek a nice meal. A hotel car to whisk us to the Saturday night madness of the Galerias Santo Domingo where a wide selection of restaurants is for our choosing. After a bit of deliberation, we decide on Meson Espanol.

The Meson is an interesting place. Done in a traditional Spanish style, the food is tapas and a selection of paellas, all seafood. For a moment I ponder the notion of Spanish wines until our server tells us of the jarras of sangria. Hmmm, fun sangria for guzzling or serious wine for sipping? You guess the choice!


Olives stuffed with pimentos.

The problem with tapas is that it's too easy to get carried away and order too much. Before you know it, you're table is inundated with the complex and dizzying array of tastes and textures. Choose carefully and you are rewarded. Choose gluttonously and you will be punished.

Moderation and balance is the order of the day, but some things are too interesting to miss - like the Jamon Serrano and the olives. A homage to healthy eating, the mushrooms have a bitter quality that I'm not fond of. The croquetas are merely perfunctory and disappointing and I'm wishing we had ordered the anchovies instead.


Jamon Serrano.

Happily, the quantity is manageable and by the time the paella real arrives, we're ready.

Paella is such an interesting dish to me. Varied and complex, I really don't know what is truly a "good" paella and what is an "okay" paella. I do, however, know what a "bad" paella is - having had a bad one in Baltimore about a year ago. Truly detestable.



Chorizo.

Meson Espanol's Paella Real is filled with clams, mussels, shrimp, fish and lobster. No meat of any kind. It's got a slight tartiness to it but is quite tasty. I can't get enough.

Meanwhile, the pitcher of sangria is flowing fast and I'm very glad that we have the hotel car to take us back.



Jamon y queso croquetas.




Mushrooms on the plancha.




A little salad.




Paella Real.

Campeonato de Baristas Nicaraguense, Round One

Juan Pablo and Paola look for their assignments.



As does Rebeca and Isaura.



From the seats.



Head Judge Ana Garcia.



ACEN's Dieter Delgado.



I oversee.



Our Judges: Juan Pablo Oporta (s), Isaura Zeledon (s), Paola Brenes (s), Indira Arias (t), Egda Reyalvarez (s), Yours Truly (H), Ana Garcia (h), Claudia Lovo (s), Rebeca Vergeli (s), Edwin Ruiz (s), Dieter Delgado (s) and Marisela Martinez (s).



Indira and Claudia talk tech with Ana.



Paola, Edwin and Rebeca discuss the drinks.



Tech Judges Indira Arias and Claudia Lovo.



Ana's team evaluates espresso.



The Finalists: Carlos Lopez, Dina Salazar, Manuel Martinez and Jose Herrera.

Nicaragua Judges Training, Day Two

Scoring and a snack.

Day two of judges training continues with Ana at the helm and me guiding the till. Yes, odd metaphor considering we're in a landlocked city but we're off to the races and it's do or die time. Today is the day we have to select those trainees who will become certified national judges for the competition tomorrow.

As I wrote yesterday, it's difficult preparing people to judge a competition - especially when they have little to no experience. So much to learn, so much to teach and even with two days, it feels like so little time! What makes it a bit harder this time around is that it's just the two of us who have judging experience. Usually, there are national judges who have done this before and we can rely on their experience helping to guide the new judges.


Everyone gathers for lunch.

Unfortunately this time everyone is a first-time judge and we're going to have to really be on our toes during the competition to make sure everything is watched over carefully and consistently.

Where the first day was all about lecture, discussion and learning how to do what we do, the second day is about practical testing. It's crunch time and we need to see who's going to make it and who will need to try next year. The morning starts off with the written test on rules, regulations and general coffee knowledge. For some, it's easy. For others, not so much. And even though both of us hinted very strongly that they should "memorize the scoresheets by heart" we can tell who took our encouragement lightly.


My lunch - scared of the lettuce.

The written exam takes us to lunchtime and after lunch we're back with a discussion on understanding senses and the coffee sensory test. From there it's a practical discussion about evaluating both espresso and cappuccino drinks. Then, towards the end, it's mock competition presentations where we vet out those who we think will be able to handle the duties of a national judge.

One key to being a good sensory judge? Writing and lots of notes. We want to see copious amounts of notes supporting the scores given. Tell the barista why you assessed that score, be clear and be concise.


Post meal chatting.

Finally, at the end of the day, it's tears of joy and pain as some make it to the judging ranks and others are sent back to the minors. In reality, we want everyone to pass certification because it can only help develop the community, and what Nicaragua really needs is continuity in the judging ranks.

Guess we'll find out tomorrow just how sage our certifications turn out to be.


With the girls of Cafe Las Flores: Indira, Isaura and Carmen.



Ana and Isaura with the boys.



Ana reviews scoresheets with Isaura and Egda.




Sensory Time!



The classroom.



Tasting espresso.



Evaluating espresso.



Egda, Indira and Claudia discuss the finer points of Cappuccino.