Saturday, August 16, 2008
Ilai, David, Hana and The Bob.
We hosted the after party at the house after the wedding. Many people came. Roy brought his truck loaded with beer and drinks. The Bob brought The Volcano and it erupted on everybody. I went to bed at 3am. They danced and partied until 5am. After you see the pics, I really don't think you need my narration to understand how the party went.
Duncan and The Bob
Who's that girl? And where was she going?
A new form of line dancing.
Best Man Roy.
Gabriella wonders why the groom is wearing sunglasses and slippahs.
Neil is getting married and it's about time.
It was three years ago, after Al's bachelor party and during Polly's bachelorette party in Las Vegas (don't ask how I got wrapped up in both), that Neil brought Monica (Nikki's real name) around to meet our friends. Stoked, that's the word. The guy looked stoked. And rightfully so. Monica is just stunning. Who would have thought this schleppy guy we've known for years would have met and then married such a great girl?
According to Roy (Neil's brother and best man), they had only met just a couple of months before when Monica and her family were visiting Hawaii. They met, hung out, Neil cleaned their boat and a fairytale ensued. Back then, Neil worked as some sort of CSI guy for the Honolulu Police Department, but once he met Monica, he was off to New York City.
The Wedding Spot
Here's a guy, originally from Philadelphia, who once swore he would never leave the islands, ever live on the mainland again, setting up camp on the Upper West Side just to be close to Nikki. For two years, he lived in New York City and then it was time to get married.
Coming to the wedding was an interesting homecoming. Friends from all over the world were attending. Friends from different groups. Some were from Hawaii Loa College - friends who I haven't seen in over fifteen years. Others were friends from the days living in Hawaii. More were friends from home. Drop all of them on top of a hillside overlooking Chinaman's Hat island and the sea and you couldn't stage a more picturesque wedding.
Here comes the Bride.
Hana, Lisa, Ilai, Duncan, Muneko and David
That guy is stoked.
The last time I saw these guys, we were doing the same thing.
Tim, Dave, Me, Frank, Muneko, Bob, Neil, Lisa, Hana, Chris, Duncan and Ilai.
Neil with Mu and Lisa.
Lots of poke on my plate.
Is it Nikki or Monica?
Tilly and Seena
Christine, Michelle, Gerry, Polly and DJ Un-G.
Night falls over Kualoa.
Samoan Fire Knife Dance
Keneke's of Waimanalo with some local blalah and no t-shirt.
After spending the morning at the KCC Farmer's Market and rousting the hungover Doc Rhee from bed, we were back on the road again to Ka'a'awa. But with such a beautiful day at hand and an open-air jeep at our disposal, it seemed a waste to take the fast way over the Ko'olau mountains. Better to take our time and go around the east side and enjoy the weather.
The far east side of O'ahu is rocky coastline. Rocky and jagged cliffs plunge into rough and deep blue sea. The water is choppy in what is the Moloka'i Channel - the passage of water between O'ahu and Moloka'i through which the entire Pacific Ocean circulates through, making it one of the most dangerous channels in the world.
The Ko'olau Mountains and my Jeep from Alamo.
All of this angry coastline also makes for some great body surfing with famous spots like Makapu'u and Sandy Beach - where I once nearly drowned in 1991.
But past all of this, on the windward side of the island, in the sleepy local town of Waimanalo is a little plate lunch joint called Keneke's. I've been coming to Keneke's since we happened upon it back in May 1988. And while Keneke's has strong Hawaiian roots, for me, it's all about the pork adobo.
Lau Lau Plate Lunch
For the uninitiated, pork adobo is a Filipino specialty. It might as well be the national dish. Take some pork, cut it into cubes, pan fry with garlic and oil, add black pepper and then pan braise with soy sauce and vinegar - and a bay leaf, for good measure. Let it cook off for awhile and voila! Pork adobo.
Truth be told, adobo across the Philippines comes in many variations. There is no one way to make any adobo dish. It's interpretation is a direct representation of the people. That said, Keneke's version suits me fine. The pork is browned and tastes strongly of shoyu, with just a touch of acidity from the vinegar. Of course, the one aspect that draws you to it also repels you at the same time - and that's the oil. Keneke isn't afraid of oil. They embrace it. The pork adobo is coated in it. When they said to pan fry in oil, these guys didn't hold back. They went for the gold.
Pork Adobo Mini Plate
It's a major reason why I only order the mini-plate at Keneke's - not to mention the very generous portion sizes. Remember, this isn't just Hawaii, this is Waimanalo: Home of the Hawaiian. Local people expect their plate lunch to be generous and Keneke's doesn't disappoint. Order the regular plate and you're gonna be taking half of it home with you. Better to just order the mini and a side of fries for texture.
Doc Rhee decides to go for the regular Lau Lau plate. A traditional Hawaiian dish, lau lau is basically some sort of meat (typically pork and/or butterfish) that's wrapped in taro leaf, seasoned with Hawaiian salt, packaged in ti leaves and then steamed in an 'imu (underground oven). The result is soft, moist and sweet meat to go with rice or poi. You eat everything except the outer wrapping of ti leaves.
Yes, Keneke's will cater your funeral too.
Bear in mind, there's nothing fancy or fine dining about Keneke's. Remember, this is Waimanalo. It's just simple, rustic fare in very sparse environs designed to weather the weather. Tables are concrete. Benches are made of cinder block. You're outdoors under the sun. There's no frills but you're loving every minute of it.
Keneke's Divine Grinds
41-857 Kalanianaole Hwy
Waimanalo, HI 96795
Brewed Coffee from Coffee Talk
There's nothing like a brisk morning hike through the local farmer's market to start off the day. I had heard about the KCC Farmer's Market but since I expected to be in Ka'a'awa this morning, I figured the one in Kailua would have to suffice.
Of course, with Doc Rhee going deep past inebriation last night and our resultant crash at Sree and Joey's house suddenly, the KCC Farmer's Market was within striking distance. With the sunlight peeking through the window and shining on my face at 7am, I was up and ready in no time. First stop: coffee.
Normally, I'm not a coffee drinker. Meaning, I don't need a cup 'o joe in the morning to get my day going. Like any sensible drug dealer, I don't get hooked on my own dope. Maybe it was the brilliant Hawaiian morning or maybe it was just a desire to sample as much of the local foods as I possibly can on this trip, but I made my way over to Kaimuki's Coffee Talk coffeehouse.
A Crowded Market
Coffee Talk is Honolulu's venerable coffee spot. It's been there since 1992 and has been a leader on Hawaii's coffee scene ever since. It's got one of the few La Marzocco's on the island and offers free wi-fi internet. The last time I was in town, I would park myself at Coffee Talk in the late evenings to catch up on emails.
Sadly, a coffee shop that doesn't keep its' portafilters locked into their groupheads at all times isn't worth risking a shot. I only want one coffee and I want it to be good - or at least try to find a way to mitigate it being bad. Instead, I decided to go with their regular brewed coffee, and since flavored coffee is not an option I would choose (goodness, no!), I opted for the Indonesian Sumatra coffee.
Oh So Sweet Watermelon
Finding a rich, brewed coffee is always a joy. One that has robust flavor and proper brewing parameters is exciting. When you come across such a cup you just want to savor it. To nurture it. To finish your cup and ask for another. Hell, it's such an exciting cup, you want to pay for another.
Unfortunately, my cup of Sumatra at Coffee Talk was anything but the above.
Instead, it was light. Too light, which meant poor brewing techniques and standards. The cup tasted about half the Gold Cup Standard. Instead of 3 ounces of coffee for every 48 ounces of brew, this was maybe two. The cup was light, watery and devoid of definitive flavor. Disappointing isn't the proper descriptive. It's a crappy way to start off your morning. I couldn't wait to find a rubbish bin to dump it into.
Pineapples and Papayas
I figured that maybe I could buy a cup of coffee at whatever coffee vendor was at the farmer's market. In the end, I was too spooked to drop another buck fifty on a cup at Koko Crater Coffee Roasters booth. That's not to say their coffee isn't good because I don't know whether it is or not. All I know is that the first cup of coffee was so bad that I just wasn't willing to risk more of my hard-earned money on unknown coffee.
However, if the first cup at Coffee Talk had been good, I probably would have been game to try another cup at Koko Crater. It's a shame since I would like to have tried their coffee, but the first cup compounded with the long line just burned my resolve.
Visiting a new farmer's market is always exciting and KCC is a good one. Staged by the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation, their rule is that all the product being sold at the market must be produced in Hawaii. This bodes well for my shopping adventure and the market is chock full of all kinds of local goodness.
The market is packed. To the gills. Even though Kapiolani Community College has plenty of parking, it's tough to find a space. The place is jamming. The produce looks beautiful. First order of business is to get the lay of the land. I spend the first forty minutes just wandering the aisles looking at product and planning my assault.
Manzanillo from Hale'iwa.
Early on, I spy some incredible looking oranges. Oh, and how about that butter lettuce? There's the ubiquitous kettle corn vendor, but next to him is a lady selling Filipino baked goods like hopia, puto and bibingka. Locally grown baby bok choy? This ain't Maryland, folks. And what about those papayas? Not to mention the array of wonderful flowers that make me wish I had a home to decorate.
Baby Bok Choy
But there's something slightly off about this farmer's market. I've gotten used to the whole "let's be green" nature of the Baltimore farmer's markets and while there's that "green" feeling here, I can't help but to feel a disconnect with the widespread practice amongst the produce vendors that bag all of their produce in plastic bags. I mean everything from baby bok choy to lettuce to mixed greens to tomatoes are packaged in plastic, with printed labels. Mind you, these aren't the slick packages you see at the supermarket from commercial producers, these are simple plastic bags.
I just have to wonder why these local farmers would use so much plastic.
Kamuela Sweet Tomatoes
With my reconnaissance complete, I start the buying. First, is a small box of puto, a form of sweet rice cake, from the Filipino lady. Then, it's back to that organic farmer selling the beautiful butter lettuce. A package of Waimanalo sweet corn, some yellow swiss chard, a package of baby bok choy and Kamuela tomatoes. Some thin asparagus for the grill, and finally some sweet watermelon from Aloun Farms in Ewa.
And not to forget: a couple of pounds of beef short ribs and a couple of New York Strip steaks from North Shore Cattle Company. As far as I can tell, they're the only 100% grass-fed and pasture-raised beef on Oahu and I'm excited to give them a try. Note: I went with the New York Strips only because they were out of ribeye and bought what little ribs they had left.
My biggest problem at the farmer's market is that I never travel lightly. No matter how carefully I may choose my purchases, I always seem to end up with lots of bags and piles of ingredients. By the time I got to the watermelon, I was swamped. I needed a cart or at least another set of hands. This made for a very long walk back to the jeep.
But no matter, I'm buying groceries for our merry band of party people at the beach house. The nice thing about traveling with Sree, Joey and Rhee is that they have an appreciation for fine foods and are pretty darn good cooks in their own right. I left the market with the jeep loaded and confident that these great ingredients will be handled carefully and thoughtfully by our crew.
Looking for Lau Lau?
Filipino Baked Specialties
Shopping for Flowers
3601 Waialae Ave
Honolulu, HI 96816
The Saturday Market at Kapiolani Community College
Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation
4303 Diamond Head Road
Honolulu, HI 96816
41-574 Makakalo Street
Waimanalo, HI 96795
PO Box 569
Kahuku, HI 96731
91-1440 Farrington Highway
Kapolei, HI 96707
Ma'o Organic Farm
86-210 Puhawai Road
Wai'anae, HI 96792
North Shore Cattle Company
PO Box 2339
Ewa Beach, HI 96706